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| May
2000 |
No. 28
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Published
Occasionally
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Girl
With Two Old Goats
The Casa remains committed to
sustainable agriculture. Compost, cover
crops, and hand labor are replacing
chemical fertilizers, pesticides, and
herbicides. We are learning to farm the
way our forebears did, before agricultural
practices were trans formed by the
post-war surplus of nitrates and the
rapidly increasing stockpiles of
petrochemical byproducts.
Pictured above is the latest in
biological control of leaf hoppers, the
vector which carries the deadly Pierce's
disease into the vineyard. Nubi, the goat
(on four legs) above, has joined our
company to devour the vinca, an introduced
ground cover which has taken over the
riparian corridor and which is prime
habitat for the leaf hoppers. Nubi isn't
really very fond of vinca. "It's tough and
bitter," she says, "but it beats eating
license plates and tin cans!"
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Executive
Summary
Keeping up with sales In the
final months of the last century, Shay had sold
every bottle in the place. Both Tinto and Chenin
Blanc were on allocation - even at the sales room;
and the inventories of other vintages were
approaching zero. Thanks to Shay's unstinting
infusion of youthful energy, we bottled the older
vintages which had been aging the in the cellar,
renewing supplies just in a nick before
Christmas.
New releases for year 2000 With
this edition of the Journal, the Casa is offering
'99 Dry Chenin Blanc and '99 Chenin Blanc Reserve.
There is a new vintage of the ever popular Tinto,
1998; and the long-awaited Quixote returns with
the '97 vintage.
New packages We have developed a
new label for both the '97 Quixote and the '99
Chenin Blanc Reserve. Also, both styles of chenin
blanc are available in 375 ml bottles (splits).
Library wines available (one
case limit) For collectors of older vintages, we
are making available a portion of our library: '93
Cabernet Sauvignon and '95 Cabernet Franc.
Vineyard Restoration An ambitious
plan of vineyard restoration is well begun. We
have "T" budded most of the JR to Cabernet
Sauvignon. We have interplanted the Tinto vineyard
at the Casa, greatly increasing the vine count.
The "new" Cab Franc vineyard which went in the
ground two years ago will be trained to a split
canopy trellis this summer. The "old" Cab Franc,
which is sadly succumbing to the twin plagues of
phylloxera and Pierce's disease will be ripped
after harvest this year and replanted next spring.
The goal is to reach 100 tons by year 2005,
enabling production of 5000 of cases of wine.
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Riesling
to Cabernet
It is possible to convert a mature
grapevine from one variety to another. The
technique, called "T" budding, is not as
improbable as it sounds at first,
considering that only a small fraction of
the living vine is visible on the surface.
The true life of the vine is in the root
structure below the surface. In the case
of our Johannisburg Riesling vineyard, the
roots are the native american vine, St.
George. To make the transformation, a "T"
incision is made in the trunk of the vine.
If the timing is right, the bark will
"slip," permitting a bud cut from another
variety to be inserted and taped into the
cambium layer of the vine. The top of the
vine is then cut off with a chain saw.
Great delicacy is required in making the
incisions and fitting the bud to the slot.
With a great deal of skill and a little
bit of luck, a new vine will grow from the
grafted bud. Pictured above is Salvador
Preciado making the grafts which will
convert our JR vineyard into a Cabernet
vineyard. Salvador is highly regarded for
his skill in "T" budding. In fact, he and
his crew have been recruited to do their
work in the vineyards of Germany, France,
and Italy.
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Casa
Nuestra
3451 Silverado Trail
North
St. Helena, CA 94574
(707) 963-5783 Fax
(707) 963-3174
info@casanuestra.com
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JR Farewell
It is always a sad thing when market
pressures force the retirement of a great
wine. We made Johannisberg Riesling in
1989, 1995, and 1996, and every vintage
was outstanding. In the intervening years,
we sold the fruit to Stags Leap Wine
Cellars, which continued to make great
vintages. The vineyard site is probably
the best ground belonging to Casa Nuestra.
Despite the unsurpassed quality of the
wine, we have never successfully found the
market. So great is the ignorance
surrounding this noble grape that in the
sales room it is difficult to cajole our
visitors into even tasting the wine at
all. Reluctantly we face the reality that
we cannot make a wine unless there are
people who will buy it. Thus, we have
budded the JR vineyard over to Cabernet
Sauvignon, for which there seems to be an
insatiable thirst in the market place. Too
bad though. Clearly, there are JR
loyalists among our customers who will be
disappointed. If you are one of these, now
is the time to buy up the remaining
inventory; and if you don't know what it's
all about, you can still get in on it. We
save seven rows of JR for sentimental
reasons, insuring that JR will not
completely disappear from the Napa Valley.
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NAME THAT WINE
Holding on to our niche in this fiercely
competitive market requires constant maneuver and
reinvention. Wines in the $10 to $15 range are no
longer profitable in the Napa Valley. Wanting to
build on what we have, our strategy for the new
millennium is to confine the Casa Nuestra product
line to Chenin Blanc and Tinto. We plan to retain
the historic price structure of the Casa Nuestra
line, continuing to be the least expensive and
best value wines in the Napa Valley. Production of
Casa Nuestra wines will be limited, but our
mailing list buyers will be given priority. We are
adding value to our Bordeaux varieties, Cab
Sauvignon, Cab Franc, Merlot, and Quixote, by
improving vineyard practices, french oak
cooperage, and obsessive TLC in the cellar. We
will launch these under a new brand name which
will be priced competitively with comparable wines
from the Napa Valley. What to call it? Names under
consideration are: Dragonfly, Kirkwell, Obsidian,
Stony Loam, Cana, and Quixote. Please send in your
preference or other suggestions.
Milestone: 1999 Chenin Blanc
by Gene Kirkham
TThe wine around here is just getting better
and better. I have long known that in the first
few weeks after fermentation, the new Chenin Blanc
has a most tantalizing aroma of pineapple,
grapefruit, and peach, which I call "tropical
fruit." It has been my ambition for 20 years to
capture that youthful but elusive aroma in a
bottle - something which to my knowledge no north
American producer has ever done. After years of
trying, I had concluded that it wasn't possible.
Then I met a producer in Chile who had put the
genie in the bottle. The secret was simple but not
easy: be fanatic protection of the young wine from
oxygen. Shay has done what I could never do by
myself. Her daily (sometimes hourly) attentions to
the wine have done the trick. So, in the 21st year
of the Casa at the beginning of the 21st century,
the mission is accomplished, the Chenin Blanc is
fully realized.
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The most recent
transformation - into Professor Happy Farmer
- is proving to be one of the most
rewarding. Passing on what I have learned
helps me understand in a very concrete way
what I have accomplished here at Casa
Nuestra. I have often speculated on the joys
of teaching, which is for me another "road
not taken." So I can rejoice at this new
phase and marvel at the way in which the
Casa continues to bring me the things I need
to realize myself. Shay Boswell is the pupil
every teacher dreams of: brilliant,
motivated, and energetic as only youth can
be. Of course it is daunting to see how
quickly the student surpasses the teacher.
Nevertheless to have a acquired a crafty
knowledge over two decades and to pass that
on to a gifted student, who can do it better
than I can, is a wonderful thing.
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